The Hot Brown is Still Hot!

At 100 years old, the Hot Brown still requires a fork, a knife and a flexible definition of “sandwich.” Its centennial offers Kentuckians a delicious question: how much can you change before the family resemblance disappears?

Begin at Louisville’s Brown Hotel, where chef Fred Schmidt created the dish in 1926 for dinner-dance guests tired of late-night ham and eggs. Turkey, toast, Mornay sauce, tomatoes and bacon became the answer, broiled until bubbling.

The combination makes culinary sense: toast gives the sauce somewhere to land, turkey supplies substance, tomatoes interrupt the richness and bacon adds crunch. That balance offers a plausible explanation for its staying power. The original remains on the menus at J. Graham’s Café and the Lobby Bar & Grill, currently $32 and $34, respectively. J. Graham’s serves lunch until 2 p.m.; the Lobby’s dinner service begins at 5.

Then follow the argument east to Wallace Station in Versailles, along Old Frankfort Pike through horse country. Its $12.99 Inside Out Hot Brown puts roast turkey, ham, bacon, tomato and white-cheddar Mornay between bread pressed and grilled with butter. The sauce survives; the open face does not. Suddenly, Kentucky’s famously utensil-dependent sandwich behaves like a sandwich.

Continue to Lexington’s Ramsey’s Diner, where the traditional turkey-and-ham Hot Brown and Veggie Hot Brown both cost $15.95. The latter combines asparagus, mushrooms and tomatoes on whole-wheat bread with melted mozzarella, marinated zucchini and Parmesan. Banana peppers are optional.

Here, even Mornay loses its presumed veto power. Is melted cheese enough? Does ham improve the original, or simply change it? These menus leave room for disagreement, preferably across a table where everyone ordered something different.

For your centennial tasting route, compare structure as closely as ingredients: bread beneath sauce, sauce enclosed by bread, vegetables beneath cheese. Notice whether the toast holds up and whether each bite balances topping and base. Your favorite need not win a historical accuracy contest.

Build the Original Brown

The hotel’s official recipe makes two. Cook a butter-and-flour roux, whisk in cream and milk, then remove from heat and add Pecorino Romano. Layer thick turkey over crustless Texas toast; arrange tomato halves and toast points alongside. Cover with Mornay, sprinkle with more Pecorino and broil until browned and bubbling. Cross crisp bacon on top, finish with paprika and parsley, and serve immediately. Parmesan also appears in the ingredient list.

Find another Kentucky classic in the Guide to Kentucky American cuisine directory: https://www.guidetokentucky.com/american-cuisine-restaurants